Even with my obsession with smart beauty and research-based skincare, I am, too, susceptible to various skincare marketing tricks: vitamins in skin care are definitely one of my weaknesses (anti-oxidants being the other one, but let’s just save that for another post.)
I see vitamins on a product label and I immediately conjure up the mental image of fresh, healthy, bouncy, beautiful skin (must be a deeply-rooted association with fresh fruits and vegetables).
But, as choosing a good skincare routine and products should be based on more than random, but beautiful mental images, let’s dive a little deeper into the role of vitamins in skin care and the most important players.
Again, the usual disclaimer: I am no doctor, dermatologist, or beauty scientist, just an overly enthusiastic beauty junkie with a hobby of researching beauty products. And as always, I encourage everyone to do the research, read the ingredient list, and test everything instead of just blindly giving in to marketing claims. Yes, sometimes they are true, but let’s just check to make sure.
The best vitamins for beautiful skin
Vitamin C
One of the few research-proven anti-aging ingredients, this one is an anti-oxidant powerhouse.
Good for
+ brightening the complexion
+ fading dark spots and hyperpigmentation
+ anti-aging
+ boosting collagen production
+ helping protect skin from sun damage (though does not substitute a proper SPF product!) and free radicals
+ smoothing skin texture
Watch out for
+ Ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid in the ingredient list. It’s the purest and most potent form. However, it can be irritating at a high concentration so always test it first. Some of the other ingredients you can see on the INCI list: 3-0 Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitate.
+ Opaque, airtight packaging – vitamin C is highly unstable and any kind of exposure to light and air will quickly make it lose its effectiveness. If your vitamin C product turned brown, it sadly doesn’t work anymore.
Product recommendations
+ Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum
+ Mario Badescu Vitamin C Serum
+ Hylamide C25 Stabilised Vitamin C Booster
Vitamin E
An antioxidant and anti-inflammatory vitamin that protects and repairs the skin.
Good for
+ protecting skin from UV rays (does not substitute SPF products!)
+ hydration
+ protecting skin by neutralizing free radicals
+ intense moisturizing
Watch out for
+ Tocopherol or tocopheryl acetate in the ingredient list
+ Though many recommend vitamin E as a powerful healer of scars, it is actually not proven by research. In fact, some people can develop contact dermatitis (a type of rash) when using vitamin E on scars.
+ Antioxidants work really well in blends (try vitamin E and C products together)
Product recommendations
+ The Body Shop Vitamin E range
Vitamin A
One of the few proven anti-aging ingredients. There are different strength products out there, the strongest being prescription products. In case of retinoids, a talk with a dermatologist or aesthetician could never hurt.
Good for
+ anti-aging
+ acne treatment
+ stimulating cell-turnover and collagen production
+ helping fine lines and wrinkles
Watch out for
+ Retinoic acid, tretinoin, tazarotene, adapalene (prescription), retinol, retinyl palmitate (OTC) in the ingredient list.
+ Prescription-strength retinoids might have some side effects when you first start using them. Skin might be flaky and drier than usual. This is normal and you’ll get used to it overtime.
+ Probably should start out with a lower concentration and build up over time.
Product recommendations
I’m not completely comfortable recommending products as I haven’t yet tried retinoids, but I will start my retinol journey with The Ordinary 2% Retinol in the fall. I encourage doing some research and read some tips on how to use retinols and testing products to find the best.
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
This is one of my new favorites. I use it most evenings and I have to say, it does have noticeable positive effects on my skin – it’s a lot smoother and the texture is more even. I highly recommend this.
Good for
+ anti-aging
+ smoothing and brightening complexion
+ reducing redness and blotchiness
+ strengthening the skin’s barrier function
+ improving elasticity
+ helping acne
+ boosting collagen production
Watch out for
+ Niacinamide in the ingredient list
Product recommendations
+ The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
+ PAULA’S CHOICE Resist 10% Niacinamide Booster
+ Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum
+ Alpha-H Vitamin B Concentrated Serum
Previous posts in How to become a better beauty shopper:
Smart choices: Everything you need to know about SPF
The truth about anti-aging without the marketing bullshit
Mindful beauty shopping: How to decode a beauty product label
Thank you so much for this! I too get a bit carried away when I see vitamins advertised on skincare products, I mean, they must be good for you, right?
This post has helped so much! Saved a few of the recommendations you gave!
Madiha x
http://www.mevstheodds.com
Thank you so much, it means a lot. I always hope all that research will help others as well:)
Wow, this was really thorough, thank you! I found it very helpful. In fact, I bought a vitamin C serum on the basis of your recommendation and I am really pleased with it after the first few uses.
I’m so happy to hear that! xx