Skincare can be confusing. All the different products, ingredients, scientific terms, bold promises, and you-absolutely-must-have-this claims can easily overwhelm us. Even after we’ve bought some (or a lot) of products, deciding which one is actually working and thus is worth the price and which one is just a waste of money is often difficult.
A lot of different factors determine the efficiency of skin care products, most importantly, the ingredients, and whether you’ve accurately assessed the needs of your skin and selected appropriate products.
There’s never a 100% guarantee that everything will work out in the end, but becoming more knowledgeable about the science of skincare considerably lowers the risk of bad shopping decisions. You can learn what the most important ingredients are and how you can decode an ingredient label; beware of beauty marketing lies, and know whether pricey really means better quality.
But there’s another important factor at play here, something that’s often difficult to practice.
Patience.
I know we’re increasingly conditioned to expect instant results and gratification by all the clever beauty ads, but some products just take their time to produce results.
Not all of them, of course – some products should really work quickly, if not, or you’re not experiencing the right effects (more on that below), you should ditch that product and find something better. But others take more time and it’s important to be patient because often those slower products are the ones that really make a long-term difference.
Often, we make the mistake of falling in love with a fantasy of a product, then we become disappointed when the results do not come overnight, and quickly move on to the next. This is the worst thing we can do to our skin, not to mention, it’s a waste of money as well. Give them time to prove their worth.
Some general rules
+ Active ingredients that do more work on the cellular level (e.g. increase collagen production) need considerably more time to produce results.
+ Medical skin treatments like injections, chemical peeling, laser or ultrasound treatments will usually have more intense results than regular over-the-counter products, so if you expect fundamental changes, research those.
+ Keep in mind that in most cases if a product promises instant glow, it will be most likely a superficial and temporary effect caused by moisturizing or exfoliating ingredients (that doesn’t mean they shouldn’t be used, but don’t expect lasting results).
+ Even if products take longer to work, it’s worth getting a sample to test them beforehand just to see how your skin reacts and avoid allergic reactions.
+ There are ways to increase the efficiency of products – exfoliation, for example, helps the absorption of most ingredients. The right skincare order also matters, lighter formulations should be applied first followed by heavier products. In my experience, a facial massage will also help product absorption; you can do this with your hands or with a jade roller.
+ Some products may have less than pleasant results at first, for example, you may experience some tingling with exfoliators or peeling and dryness when you first start using retinol. These are usually normal. However, if there are immediate bad reactions like lasting redness, bumps, red spots, breakouts, or rashes, it’s probably best to ditch the product.
+ Consistency is key – don’t expect steady and lasting results if you don’t commit to using a product.
+ Don’t expect miracles, especially not from a single product. Don’t believe the over-exaggerated product claims and keep in mind how beauty marketing works.
+ Sometimes you realize how much a product actually works only when you stop using it.
+ Try to introduce products gradually to have a chance of assessing what might work and what not.
Is your skincare product working for you? – What to expect and when?
Cleanser
Signs that the product works: Makeup and dirt are thoroughly removed with no leftover residue. The skin should feel plump, soft, moisturized. Forget the term “squeaky clean” – if your skin feels tight or dry, it means you probably killed your skin’s protective barrier. Ditch that cleanser and find a gentler one.
When to expect results: Pretty much immediately. The long-term benefits of good cleansing are that your skin is clear, and you don’t develop spots. I don’t think we should expect anything more from a cleanser, they don’t spend enough time on the skin for any life-changing results.
Toner/mist
Signs that the product works: To be honest, I don’t expect much from toners and mists apart from some slight moisturizing benefits. For me, these are feelgood products – I like using them, they dampen the skin and thus help the absorption of serums and moisturizer.
When to expect results: Immediately.
Moisturizer
Signs that the product works: Your skin is very soft and looks plump. Fine lines may disappear for a bit and you have a healthy glow.
When to expect results: There are short and longer-term effects. Good moisturizers have almost immediate effects (considering your skin is not insanely dry), so your skin should definitely feel softer to the touch. If you use them (or other night creams) overnight, you should wake up with pretty, glowy skin. The long-term result is simply that your skin is happy and remains well-hydrated.
Facial oil
Signs that the product works: Very similar to moisturizing. Skin is plump, well-hydrated (but not greasy), often brighter.
When to expect results: After your product really sank in, generally a couple of hours later or overnight in case you used the oil in your evening routine. Most facial oils also contain antioxidants and other active ingredients – they will definitely take a couple of weeks to maximize their power.
Acid products/exfoliants
Signs that the product works: A very tangible effect will be some tingling when you apply the product and maybe some redness. A good acid product will make your skin very smooth, small bumps and textural irregularities will disappear, your skin will look glowy, even, and not dull.
When to expect results: 3-4 weeks after you’ve started using acids, but longer-lasting effects can take up to 3-4 months. You can also test the results in a kind of reverse way – when I stopped using exfoliating treatments, my skin texture definitely worsened.
Vitamin C products
Signs that the product works: As a visible sign, you should see brighter, firmer skin. But Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant and anti-aging ingredient, so it works in the background as well for long-term benefits.
When to expect results: 4-6 weeks with consistent (2-3 times per week) use.
Retinol products
Signs that the product works: The first signs are not very pleasant – your skin might get dry, flaky, and start to peel, especially in case of stronger retinol products. This should begin after 1 or 2 weeks and last for another 1-2. Retinol is similar to Vitamin C in a way that it will have visible effects (brighter, smoother skin, fine lines disappearing), but it’s also important on the long term to slow down the aging process (it’s actually one of the few proven ingredients to do that). I cannot really say anything about the anti-aging properties, as I do not yet have wrinkles and lines (so I use it as a preventive measure), but I did have some acne scars on my forehead (nothing serious, but still slightly visible to me) and after 2 months they started to even out and became much smoother.
When to expect results: in 2-3 months, but it can take up to 6 months. The stronger the retinol (e.g. prescription products), the sooner the positive results appear.
Serums
Signs that the product works: It depends on the exact serum, whether it’s brightening, anti-aging, spot/blemish/acne treating, and so on.
When to expect results: 6-8 weeks. Serums usually contain active ingredients that take more time to work, so it’s definitely worth sticking to one for a couple of months.
Masks
Signs that the product works: Well, you should most definitely see something – usually glowy, plump, smooth skin if it’s a brightening, exfoliating, or hydrating mask. If my skin looks totally the same, for me, it’s a sign the mask doesn’t really work for me. One exception may be clay masks, it takes some time for them to clear your skin, but there should be some clear signs (often spots) in a couple of days.
When to expect results: Immediately, overnight, or in a couple of days. Results do not really last, though, I think serums, Vitamin C products, and retinol are way more important in a skincare routine.
Acne treatments
Signs that the product works: Clearer skin, acne gets better, inflammation and redness go down.
When to expect results: Depends on the product: over-the-counter stuff may take 2-3 months of continuous use. Medical products prescribed by a doctor may take less time (1.5-2 months if your acne is serious and all over the place). If you only have 1 or 2 cystic acne bumps, some prescription products may make them disappear in 2-3 weeks.
