The main focus of beauty ads and marketing is always more. You need more shades, textures, treatments, and products. Everything is supposed to offer a solution to a different, no matter how marginal, issue. We’re bombarded by so many options and suggestions that honestly, it’s pretty easy to feel lost.
If you’ve read any of my smart beauty posts, you’ll know that I try to guard myself against this beauty brainwashing as much as I can. I do a lot of research because ultimately I think that being informed is our best chance at making smart shopping decisions.
Related: 10 smart tips to become a better beauty shopper
With that said, I do think that the beauty industry is right about a lot of things – and a need to change our skincare routine according to the seasons is one of them.
My skin is fairly normal usually; fortunately, I don’t have major skin issues or sensitivities. However, every year around December, I notice that my skin needs a change. The products I use in warmer weather are simply not enough to offset the harsher temperature and cold outside or the drier air (caused by heaters and lack of humidity) inside. When my skin starts feeling tight and uncomfortable or when dry patches appear, I know it’s time for more hydration and layering.
How to layer skincare products
Layering skincare products may seem very simple at first. We wouldn’t put moisturizer on before cleansing and most of us have heard about using retinol or heavier acids at night. But when you move further from the very basics and start throwing different serums, toners, essences, oils, and ingredients into the mix, it can get a little bit more complicated.
While I do have some general tips about layering, I’d advise everyone to follow the lead of their own skin. There are a couple of tips that everyone can take (because chemical rules are universally applying), but others may need some experimenting. What may be good for me, may not work for everyone else. You may be more sensitive to certain products or ingredient combinations and more tolerant of others. Research is not always consistent either. For example, some experts say niacinamide and Vitamin C should not be used together, others say they actually work together. Where does that leave us, the consumers? Research, read, and experiment and don’t just blindly follow the expert tips.
Winter skincare layering tips that work for me
+ Most often, the product order should go from the lightest to the heaviest. That means applying toners and lighter serums before heavier creams or oils.
My general product order (details below) in the AM is:
– Cleanser
– Hydrating spritz
– Serum
– Moisturizer and/or oil
– SPF
PM order is:
– Micellar makeup remover
– Second cleanser
– Toner/Mist
– Serum/Treatment
– Moisturizer and/or oil
+ SPF always goes last – it should be the final protective barrier. And you should always use SPF, but especially after using retinol or an acid (even if that was the night before).
+ Eye cream (if you use one) goes on after serum but before moisturizer.
+ I don’t generally recommend using retinol and stronger acids on the same day as the combination can be too harsh for most people.
+ Traditional water-based serums go under moisturizer, but nowadays more and more brands use the word serum to describe their oil blends as well. You should always look at the consistency and decide whether it’s light or heavy.
+ Oils should follow moisturizer, the other way will not really work as a water-based moisturizer cannot get through the oil molecules.
Related: Everything you need to know about skin care oils
+ Hyaluronic acid products (remember, these are not exfoliating acids, but moisturizers) should be followed by water-based moisturizers so they can pull the moisture from them into your skin.
Winter skincare diary
This post contains some affiliate links, which means that, at no extra cost to you, I may get paid commission if you click through those links and make a purchase. I only link to products I’ve tried and love, but please consult the ingredients and product descriptions before you make a purchase, or get a sample to try. For reference, my skin is normal, occasionally dehydrated and my main skin concerns are brightening, prevention, and offsetting environmental damage. For more information please read my Disclaimer.
Monday
Morning
After I get up and go through my coffee-reading-breakfast routine, I wash my face with the Andalou Naturals Apricot Probiotic Cleansing Milk. This is a quite gentle milk cleanser, perfect for winter mornings. I spritz my face with Herbivore Rose Hibiscus Coconut Water Hydrating Face Mist, which smells lovely and is quite refreshing. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday are my Vitamin C days, so I use the Cosmetic Skin Solutions Vitamin C+E serum, followed by Farmacy Honey Drop moisturizer.
I usually organize my weekly schedule so that I don’t have any meetings on Monday and can spend the whole day at home writing and working uninterrupted. I never wear makeup at home, and there’s no need for SPF either, so that’s it for my skincare routine. I make sure I have my humidifier on throughout the day, especially as I work next to a radiator, which really dries the air and my skin.
Night
When I don’t go out or wear makeup I skip the double cleanse in the evening and use only an oil cleanser, this time the Aesop Parsley Seed Facial Cleansing Oil (love this cleanser). Next, toners: first I use Pixi Glow Tonic, an exfoliating, but very gentle toner, and follow it with Mario Badescu Aloe Herbs and Rosewater Facial Spray. Last, I put on one of my favorite product combinations: The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% and Caudalie Vinoperfect Overnight Renewal Cream.
Tuesday
Morning
I cleanse and tone just like yesterday morning and then proceed to use the Pestle & Mortar Pure Hyaluronic Serum. I follow this with one of my favorite product combinations ever: Estée Lauder Daywear moisturizer cream and Fresh Seaberry Moisturizing Oil. Some products work incredibly well together and for my skin, this is really a winning combination. The last step is some SPF (Bare Minerals Prep Step, my all-time favorite facial SPF product) and my winter lip savior, Lanolips lip balm. I’ve been preaching about this products for years to anyone who listens – I have incredibly dry lips that easily get chapped, but this balm cures them almost immediately.
Night
After a full day in makeup and running around the city, it’s definitely time for a double cleanse. I take my makeup off with the deservedly cult-favorite Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water and follow it up with Bakel Pure Act Oil. I love this cleansing oil so much, it’s very gentle, easily removes makeup and leaves the skin very soft and hydrated. I skip the Pixi toner, because Tuesday, as well as Thursday and Saturday are my retinol days, and even though the Pixi Tonic is quite gentle, I still avoid using both at the same time. I like giving my skin a little extra hydration before the retinol though, so I use the Josh Rosebrook Hydrating Accelerator, and I must stop here for a second.
I’ll be honest: I’m not totally convinced most mists do anything substantial for our skin – I basically use them because they feel nice. But this one is totally different: it transforms my skin in an instant and makes it so smooth I have to refrain from constantly touching it. The effect is probably due to the many oils and botanical extracts it contains. Now that I’ve prepped my skin it’s ready for The Ordinary Retinol 0.5%. Since this particular retinol product is in a squalane base, and thus have an oil-like consistency, I don’t put anything else on.
Wednesday
Morning
My morning routine is pretty much the same as Monday, so instead of repeating it, I’d just like to say a few words about morning cleansing. I’ve read a lot of articles lately where influencers or celebrities say they only use cold water in the morning instead of a normal cleansing product. I’m not totally sure whether it really is a thing or they just say it as a testament to their seemingly effortless beauty routine, but I don’t see the point they are trying to make. Splashing your face with cold water may seem refreshing, but it literally doesn’t do anything to your face. If you have some product residue from the night before or even makeup residue (I sometimes do if I don’t do a thorough cleanse on my eyelashes), water will not wash it off. Also, most of us probably do not change our sheets and pillows every single day, so there’s a slight chance our face picks up some “dirt” for lack of a better word.
Yes, it’s not good to totally eliminate the protective acid mantel on our skin, but the solution is using gentle cleansers and not skipping them.
Night
My usual Wednesday skincare routine is pretty simple as it’s my acid night (I should probably up my exfoliating routine to twice weekly though). I don’t use physical exfoliators anymore only acids to shed the dead skin cells and stimulate collagen production. I’ve been using Alpha-H Liquid Gold, an AHA exfoliator for years now and I’m a diehard fan. I cleanse, use the Josh Rosebrook mist and then swipe my face with a cotton ball with Liquid Gold. You can follow it up with a cream or oil, but I usually just leave it as it is.
Thursday
Morning
See Tuesday, I follow the exact same routine.
Night
I double cleanse, as usual, once again use the hydrating mist and then it’s time for my retinol serum.
A little tip about using retinol: it’s a very potent ingredient (learn more about it here), but it can dry your skin a bit, especially the first time you start using it or switch to a higher % product (you gotta build up your skin tolerance gradually). I can feel that my skin is a bit dry today (probably due to some time spent outside), so I put a little moisturizer underneath the retinol. When I first started using retinol and my skin really flaked, I used Weleda Skin Food on the dry patches.
I cannot yet say anything about the anti-aging properties of retinol (guess time will tell), but I definitely see that it helped smooth my skin and decreased some scarring I’ve had for years from teenage acne.
Friday
Morning
Cleansing, toning, Vitamin C, and then my moisturizer, Fresh oil, SPF combination. My lips are in a much better state, so I use my second favorite lip balm ever, Burt’s Bees Red Dahlia Tinted Lip Balm. I’m in love with its creamy texture and the sheer, berry-toned color.
Night
I like inserting some extra pampering between two retinol days, so at night I spend an extra 5 minutes on hydrating my skin. I use the Beauti Skincare Beauty Sleep Elixir, a blend of 14 plant oils and massage it in with my jade roller. Most oils can be applied with the roller, but this one is especially suited for that, every time I use it, I can see glowing results the next morning.
Saturday
Morning
We have a very frosty winter day today with an uncomfortable, crisp wind, so I combine and layer all my favorite moisturizing products: the HA serum, the Estee Lauder moisturizer, and the Fresh oil. For my skin, it’s not overwhelming, but you can assess whether you have used too much product and oil very simply. If they are still not absorbed after 5 minutes and you can actually touch the oil, you’ve probably used a bit too much and should pat off the excess.
Night
It’s the last retinol night of the week – see Tuesday and Thursday routine.
Sunday
Morning
Even though I don’t feel like I overwhelm my skin during the week, I still like to give it some break on Sundays and ease up on the serious ingredients, thus I usually only use a lightweight oil as a moisturizer, maybe some SPF for the day and don’t really wear a lot of makeup. This Leahlani serum is basically a lightweight oil and it’s perfect for some glow and hydration. Plus, it has the most amazing tangerine-sweet citrus smell ever.
Night
Sunday is also my mask day. If I’m not lazy, this means a proper pampering night with a double mask: the first one is either a clay or an exfoliating mask, the second is always a hydrating one. More often than not, though, I’m very lazy and that means one thing: overnight masks. Easy, simple, takes 30 seconds to apply. For an exfoliating overnight mask, I choose the Watermelon Glow Sleeping Mask. Do believe the hype with this one, it’s really good. If I want some extra hydration, I always use this Body Shop Vitamin E Sleeping Mask. At first glance, it may seem inadequate to provide a decent moisture boost, as the texture is a bit wiggly and not very creamy, but believe me; you’ll see a difference in the morning.
Now it’s your turn: what’s your favorite winter skin savior product?
